Jane's Journeyers

Jane's Journeyers

Saturday, November 22, 2014

The elephant in the room

Chobe is home to a population of 130,000 African Elephants and so far we had seen not a one. Yesterday, after a somewhat disappointing morning trek, our guide suggested that we combine our two Wednesday safaris into one longer one. A six hour trek would allow us to go deeper into the park where the guides thought the odds of seeing some elephants and also giraffes would be higher. This was to be our last day on safari and we all agreed to this change. Yes, we all knew it would mean even longer periods being hurled about the swaying, bouncing truck, but, it also meant we were more likely to be alone which had a lot of appeal after all the traffic along the river route. And if this safari increased our odds of seeing more wildlife, well, we couldn't say no.

Thus we set off at 6am, provisioned with a bagged breakfast which we would consume about three hours later. We spent most of those three hours searching in vain for animals. Oh yes, Brian's sharp eyes detected a giraffe a couple of hundred meters in the bush. Good work Brian!


Apparently there were two more close by but only some of us could see them. Most of Chobe Park is covered by Kalahari sands which seemed to resist compaction. As a result, in addition to bouncing up and down, we were also swaying back and forth as Tony negotiated the deep, wide ruts in the sand.



Finally, somewhere close to nine we stopped for a 'rest stop' then breakfast.



Just as we were finishing someone saw something a kilometre or so down the road. Out came some binoculars and it was determined to be a person. What's a person doing All alone in the middle of the bush? Then moments later, three armed men in camouflage stepped out of the bush right beside us. We were startled and then relieved to learn that these were soldiers on poacher patrol. On a previous bio break on the ladies' side of the road Jane and Bridgette had the feeling of being observed - by a giraffe it turned out. We have no idea how long the anti poaching group has been observing us, but they did emerge from the ladies side, and they did have big smiles on their faces. Ladies beware! There are eyes everywhere!

Poaching is a serious issue here. There are no rhinos to be found in Chobe as a result of poachers. There is a shoot to kill policy in effect. Poaching is big business and you do not want to encounter anywhere close. Here we are, deep in the bush with our guide (and Brian) chatting with the good guys. Did they know something we didn't about this area? Finished breakfast, we climbed back aboard to continue our hunt. A few minutes later we turned off the firebreak pathway onto a smaller track. No sooner had we done so when more armed men simply materialized on both sides of the truck and motioned Tony to stop. The good guys again. Phew! Even so, they were making a careful check of our Land Cruiser. I have a new appreciation for the camouflage uniforms. They look so obvious when you see a soldier dressed in them in an urban setting. But these guys, only meters away were completely invisible until they popped up, weapons in clear view.



These Sable Antelope were pretty curious about us too. Those horns can impale a charging lion and so, still a little rattled by being up close with armed soldiers, we were all smiles and pleasantries with the antelope as well.

So, with less than two hours left and still not a hint of elephants Tony advised that it was time to turn back towards the river. And so we bounced along at a very brisk pace. I was at the back with Dave and Mary. After a couple of spine jarring compactions I found it best to hold on to the roll bar above my head and push down thereby making sure by butt and the seat never parted company. Poor Mary did not have that option and she was frequently launched. My arm was getting tired and so I would alternate this strategy with the trotting horse strategy using my legs once launched off the seat to try and time my descent back to the saddle, so to speak. This was not as effective, I found, but thankfully right around the time I was simply resigning myself to this punishment we came upon a smoother track, now back by the river. Right where we had been the previous morning only now it was really hot. We were happy to have shade over our heads, as do others as we happily discovered.



Finally we had come across these wonderful beasts huddling in the shade of a tree like stern-tied yachts at port (description courtesy Laurel). We watched this family unit for a while and then headed down to river to see if there were anymore there. Yes, there were, dozens, and we happily watched them lumbering into the water taking long drinks, then showers, then heading over to the mud pit to coat themselves with this coolant loved by all it seems.











Alas our time was up and so we had to start heading back to the lodge. We saw many more elephants along the route back to the park gate. We really wanted to drag our heels leaving. Then we realized that there was another kind of dragging going on.


Thus was our lust for elephants satisfied in a most extravagant manner. Shortly thereafter we said goodbye to the park delighted with the day's events. And it was only shortly after noon. After a leisurely lunch everyone found a way to relax and recover in preparation for dinner, our last one together as a group.

As I write this entry relating Wednesday's events we have just departed Heathrow Friday afternoon for the long flight to Vancouver. I'm a bit tired right now and I still have a lot of thoughts I want to record so I think I will save these for another journal entry which I will try to finish tomorrow once home. There is also going to be an Okavango addendum which Joe has promised to relate to me and Blanche has promised to send a few photos.

Location:Chobe National Park, Wednesday Nov 19

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